DEHYDRATION IN
BIRDS
by Ron
Castaner
Dehydration is very
important to recognize and understand. Most of the sick birds die of
dehydration first before the illness that caused their problem. To
dehydrate something is to remove the moisture. This is exactly what
happens to sick birds, all the moisture is removed., and not replaced.
When this happens the body and organs cannot operate normally and the
disease will become stronger and harder to cure. A sick bird drinks very
little water, or no water at all. Make sure to have water low in the cage
specially when the bird cannot perch. You might, or should I say, you have
to give it some electrolyte by crop needle or eyedropper feeding. Gatorade
or pedialyte is good to administer. The liquid is only good for 24 hours
after it is opened and if you can find powder electrolyte it is better,
lasts longer and you will have very little waste. Birds are short of
energy and they lose their willingness to live. This is why they will not
drink which will escalate the illness. Electrolyte is very important as
well as the heat lamp to keep the bird warm. It should be at 90º with 80
percent humidity. This is necessary so that the bird does not become
dehydrated. When a bird looses body water the blood flows to the muscles
and the fluid is withdrawn from the muscle tissue to compensate water
loss. Once water is taken from the muscle, it cannot function properly and
therefore, the bird cannot fly. Birds at this stage even without
infections, toxins or starvation are less able to fly and they become more
stressed. The sudden weight loss in sick birds is not protein loss, but in
fact the loss of water . The bird is dehydrated. Birds can lose 30 percent
of their body water (weight) and appear normal. By the time we notice the
weight loss, the bird is in very serious condition and the chance to turn
this around is very hard, if not impossible especially if it has been sick
for a long time.
Prevention is cheaper
than the treatment. Most birds taken to the Vet’s as emergencies have a
history of inadequate water intake. Early fluid replacement will help the
bird replace fluid without interfering with treatments. Veterinarians have
several ways to administer fluids. Under the skin, into the muscle,
intravenous and into the bone marrow. These are ways that the average
birdkeeper cannot do, however, all bird keepers can administer oral
supplements like electrolytes or Gatorade to prevent dehydration and the
possibility of damaging any internal organs more than they already are.
Keep the birds from becoming more stressed. The crop needle is the best
way to administer fluids and medications. You can try an eyedropper but
sometimes the bird can choke if not done properly. Crop needles are quick,
safe and effective. The fluid is given directly into the crop and you are
sure the bird is taking it.
Another necessity is
the hospital cage. Rather than to try to determine if the bird is
dehydrated, it is better to assume that all birds are and treat them as
such. Sick birds pose a problem of what to do. Placing the sick bird in
the hospital cage and electrolyte crop feeding are good places to start on
the bird's road to recovery. The longer you wait the more damage will
happen to the internal organs. To restore the birds to normal health after
the effects of dehydration occur will take longer if at all. Sick birds
stop eating, however they spend most of the day in the seed bowl and they
drink little if any water. It is necessary to provide a high protein,
easily digestible diet using the crop needle. In such cases handfeeding
formula with a little papaya can be used for a few days then soft eggfood
with soak seed. The high protein diet and water will be quickly absorbed
supplying the bird with what it desperately needs to give it a better
chance to start fighting any disease or infection that the bird might
have. Contact your Vet if not better in a few
days.
One way to detect or
eliminate any potential problems before they enter your aviary is to
Quarantine all new birds. You must observe all the birds in quarantine for
any signs of diseases. Once they have settled down in the quarantine cage,
it will be easier to notice signs of illness like wheezing, gasping,
weight loss, soiled vent, eye or nasal discharge, prolonged inactivity,
eating too much, drooped wings, "puffed" , or not eating or drinking. A
few diseases are: External parasites (lice and mites) Internal parasites
(worms) Protozoa (canker, coccidia) Psittacosis, nutrition and others.
There is a new one that they are studying now for the last few years
called megabacteria. You will hear a lot about this bacteria in the
future.
A good observation,
rapid first aid and professional help should save the birds. Ask for help
from your birdclub. We are loosing too many finches from inexperience. Ask
for help when needed.
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