The Leather Alternatives FAQ is compiled by Tom Swiss. It was last modified May 6 1996. Copyright (C) 1992-1996. Please copy, share and enjoy this information. Send praise, information, flames, money, beer, etcetera to tms@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us. To get the latest copy of this file, set your WWW browser to http://www.envirolink.org/arrs/faqleather.html, wait until it is posted to the USENET newsgroup rec.food.veg (the 28th of every month), send e-mail to me at tms@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us, or send a self-addressed stamped envelope for a paper copy to: Tom Swiss, 2119 Arlonne Drive, Baltimore, MD, 21228.

You are encouraged to print this list out and distribute unmodified copies to your non-netting friends or local vegetarian organization, so long as you do not do so for monetary profit.

This list is only as good as the information I get. If you have comments on any of the stores, catalogs or products mentioned in this list, or if you know of other good products or sources, please send them to me!

For the benefit of our "lurking omnivores", and for those new to vegetarianism, we should start with a few words about the attitude of vegetarians towards the use of leather goods. We should note that there are some vegetarians who have little or no objection to the use of leather and other animal-derived goods; many who adopt a vegetarian diet primarily for reasons of health would fall into this category, as would some who adopt a vegetarian diet for its lower environmental impact (but see below). Even those who are vegetarian for ethical reasons may use some leather goods - if there is no available alternative, if the goods were gifts, or purchased before the person became a vegetarian or purchased by mistake. I own a pool cue with a leather tip I bought many years ago, and I used to have a pair of leather hiking boots I bought thinking they were synthetic, and that I was unable to return.

Thus, a vegetarian wearing leather shoes is not necessarily a hypocrite.

Some claim that using leather alternatives is harmful to the environment, as these alternatives usually use plastics which are derived from petrochemicals, or fabrics like cotton whose production often involves the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. However, the production of leather is also damaging to the environment.

From the Nov/Dec 1991 issue of the Vegetarian Journal (much of the other information presented here is from the same issue.)

Environmentally, turning animal hides into leather is an energy intensive and polluting practice. The Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology states, "On the basis of quantity of energy consumed per unit of product produced, the leather-manufacturing industry would be categorized with the aluminum, paper, steel, cement, and petroleum-manufacturing industries as a gross consumer of energy." Production of leather basically involves soaking (beamhouse), tanning, dyeing, drying, and finishing. Over 95% of all leather produced in the U.S. is chrome tanned. The effluent that must be treated is primarily related to the beamhouse and tanning operations. The most difficult to treat is effluent from the tanning process. All wastes containing chromium are considered hazardous by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Many other pollutants involved in the processing leather are associated with environmental and health risks. In terms of disposal, one would think that leather products would be biodegradable, but the primary function for a tanning agent is to stabilize the collagen or protein fibers so that they are no longer biodegradable.

Evaluating the relative environmental and health costs of leather versus non-leather products is difficult to do. It is apparent that they all involve practices that can adversely affect public health and the environment. Since leather is intimately related to the exploitation of animals, it seems most desirable to buy canvas, limit purchases, go barefoot, and encourage companies to develop more ecologically sound alternatives.

And this doesn't even take into account the ecological cost of modern animal agriculture techniques.

The following companies don't sell directly to the public. Contact them to find a store in your area that carries their products:

The following carry only non-leather items:

There seem to be enough sources in the UK to almost warrant an over-seas shopping trip for those of us in other countries. Veggie Jacks and Vegetarian Shoes do international mail-order; write for a catalog. Thanks to Stephanie Peters and Geraint A Edwards for help with updated UK phone numbers. UK numbers are given in international format, e.g. +44 (0) 1234 567890, where +44 is the UK country code and the zero is for non-international callers only.

John@portsveg.demon.co.uk (John Davis) sent me the following:

Men's: Addias - materials listed on box; call (800) 448-1796 for information. Asics GT-2010. Avia Stability Trainers and Defenders (possibly also those with hydrolite or HLT2, the 141 crosstrainer, the 2000 series running shoes, the 333, Arc 351, and Arc 383 walking shoes, and several basketballs shoes, but that's all based on old information). Brooks Vangaurds. Converse All Stars ("Chuck Taylors") and canvas One Stars. I'm told Converse has also started making a heavier "army-boot" style shoe with heavier canvas and a chunky sole. Etonic Stableairs. K-Swiss canvas sneakers. New Balance - most running and some walking shoes, read labels or write to 61 N. Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02134 for a current list of non-leather shoes. Rob Spray likes his Asahi MY-3 tennis shoes. Nike - call (800) 344-NIKE for a list of animal product-free shoes; many of their non-leather shoes use a synthetic called Durabuck. Saucony G.R.I.D. Sensation II, possibly others. Vans canvas, flannel, linnen oxfords; (800) 750-VANS for more information.

Women's: Addias - materials listed on box; call (800) 448-1796 for information. Asics GT-2010. Avia Stability Trainers (and possibly the 680 and 525 aerobics shoes, running shoes in the 2000 series, the 333, 383, and 351 walking shoes, but that's old information). Converse All Stars and canvas One Stars. Etonic Stableairs. Keds canvas shoes. New Balance - all running shoes and the 590 walking shoe; read labels or write to 61 N. Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02134 for a current list of non-leather shoes. Nike - call (800) 344-NIKE for a list of animal product-free shoes; many of their non-leather shoes use a synthetic called Durabuck. Reebok canvas sneakers. Richard Simmon's line from Payless Shoe Source. Saucony G.R.I.D. Sensation II, possibly others. Tretorn canvas tennis and walking shoes. Vans canvas, flannel, linnen oxfords, mules, and Mary Janes; (800) 750-VANS for more information.

Children's: Attack Force. Converse All Stars. Nike shoes with Durabuck (that number again, (800) 344-NIKE). Pro Wings. WJ 900.

Aesop carries leather-free shoes made by Etonic, New Balance, and Tretorn.

Kim Laurie on rock climbing shoes:

In addition to the LaSportiva 'Tao's which I posted mention of some years ago there are now a few more to chose from. The La Sportiva 'Tao's are a popular shoe. They are of 'slip lasted' construction and made from Lorica. The advantage of the Lorica over a conventional leather shoe is that it will not stretch and this is very critical in a climbing shoe where fit is everything. In addition EB of France produce a 'board lasted' technical boot called the 'Tropicana' As the name suggests it is brightly colored. Pretty standard construction using fabric and rubber. They look good (which is important in this sport!) but I found that the rubber soles are only average in grip. These I found in Ellis Brigham Sports in London ph. [+44 (0) 171 240 9577]. A much better slipper I found is the US made 5.10 called the 'Anastasi'. This is slip lasted for good feel and features the best sticking rubber soles in the game, their own Stealth 5.10 rubber which sticks like a bugger(sp? we say boogy) to your finger. They are available in a Velcro strap model which I find really convenient for bouldering as you can get them on and off quickly when your feet are crying out in pain. They have an off-centre toe point which is really smart when you think about it because so does your foot! I got these at Snow and Rock in London at 150 Holborn St. EC1 Ph. [+44 (0) 171 831 6900] or for mail order [+44 (0) 1753-830 868]. In the USA I believe that you can get them from Western Mountaineering in Cupertino CA, La Sportiva 'Tao's available here too. In fact most good climbing shops will carry the 5.10s and the Tao's.

She also says that Palladium and other 'knock-offs' from Asia and India produce Chuck Taylor-like canvas and rubber shoes and boots.

Allen Schubert says, "As best I can tell, Asics makes nonleather/sythetic footwear. Whenever they _do_ use leather, it is labelled as such."

The following information comes from Nike:

Nike Spring 1996 Footwear Containing No Animal Products

In the U.K.:

Kim Laurie: "ROHDE of Germany and PRC of Italy produce walking boots designed for snowy conditions. Both of these are synthetic fleece lined and look comfortable. Water resistant but not waterproof. Synthetic fabric construction claims to breathe. Designed with warmth and comfort in mind more than ruggedness. The PRC boots called 'Kampus' are available from Ellis Brigham Sports in Covent Garden, London Ph. [+44 (0) 171 240 9577]. The RHODE models were spotted down in Penzance in the far corner of England, the name of the shop eludes me but I am certain they are a popular brand around Europe."

It's not hard to find rubber and fabric snowboots. L.L. Bean has some types.

Read labels. (Aren't most vegetarians compulsive label readers by now anyway?) Look for the words "All man-made materials", or for shoes made from canvas or other obviously non-leather fabric. Try Payless Shoe Source, Fayva, Kinney, K-Mart, Sears, J.C. Penny, Pic 'N Pay, Woolworth, Thom McAnn, Wal-Mart, Marshalls, and other inexpensive chains. You may find at least one non-leather model even at more expensive stores, but why pay more?

Tom Billings reports that non-leather narrow width men's dress shoes are just about impossible to find. Any information on sources for such shoes would be appreciated.

Shari Dawson tells me that Naturalizer shoe stores carry a variety of women's shoes in imitation leather and suede, including narrow sizes.

Vegetarian Shoes in the UK. Michael Traub says they "make synthetic shoes which will easily outlast leather shoes. They also require less maintenance (i.e. no need to polish them)." Real Goods carries Deja Shoes, made from recycled materials. Several styles. (I have a pair of their "Gaia Rovers", which are hiking-boot style shoes fine for day-to-day wear, but not up to any long hikes.) Vegetarian Shoes also carries some Deja Shoes, but notes that they contain wool in the insole and may not be suitable for vegans.

Val Voorheis reports that Kenneth Cole's UNLISTED line "has a lot of non-leather shoes. They are all clearly marked (and the non-leatherness is part of the advertising). They have a toll-free number, 1-800-UNLISTED, for information on retail locations that carry these products. In addition, some of them are pretty stylin', they are pretty good quality, and moderately priced (not Payless prices, but not terribly out of line.)"

Kim Laurie reports that "Dr. Martens of England, well known for their industrial strength stitched leather boots and shoes, also produce a range of highly fashionable fabric and synthetic models using the same 'air ware' synthetic sole and stitched construction." She also mentioned Shelley's Shoes in London and Schuh Fashions for Feet in Edinburgh, Scotland. These Doc Martins are also available from Vegetarian Shoes.

Birkenstock makes leather-free versions of some models - the Arizona, the Milano, and the Florida. Note that other sandals may have non-leather straps but still have the suede liner; those in the Alternative line have "Birko-Flor" straps, "Birko-Lon" liners, and are leather-free. They are also a lot less expensive! Available from Birkenstock Express.

Heartland Products and Aesop have plenty of shoes.

Belts: Aesop and Heartland are good sources. The belts that sometimes come with pants are almost always non-leather. Canvas belts with the brass slide-through buckles (like Boy Scouts use) can be found at any outdoor sports store; they last just about forever! Military BDU belts are also canvas but have a different style of buckle; you can often find them at military surplus stores, or from Mass Army Navy.

Briefcases: Inexpensive briefcases at office supply stores are often non-leather. Aesop carries both a business attache and portfolio. Land's End has a canvas briefcase. (Or ditch the briefcase and get a nice backpack or satchel - they're easier to carry on the bus or subway.) Mass Army Navy sometimes has canvas military style briefcases, or even aluminum attache cases that look like they should be handcuffed to someone's wrist.

Handbags and wallets: Most department stores carry some non-leather bags and wallets. Sporting goods stores often carry nylon or canvas wallets. Pueblo to People carries wallets made with Guatemalan woven cloth.

Ballet Shoes: R.G. Barry Corp., Box 129, Columbus OH 43216; or Capezio, (800) 533-1887 to find a store near you.

Look at the most inexpensive products - they are most likely to be non-leather.

Some vinyl shoes may squeak. Try mineral oil, hand cream, or similar lubricants between the noisy surfaces.

Many patent "leather" looking shoes are synthetic. Again, check the label for "all man-made materials."

"Leatherette" is a brand name of high-quality vinyl, not a form of leather.

The following World Wide Web sites have more information about alternatives to leather goods.

Thanks to the following for sending information. These folks did most of the legwork, I just put it together.

In no particular order: